Description title
Regular Checks & Maintenance
Check tyre pressures including spare and inflate if necessary to pressure shown on rating plate or
side-wall of tyre. Examine tyres for damage i.e. cuts, porosity and tread wear, replace with equivalent size and type of tyre where necessary. This should be checked on a monthly basis.
Apply grease to tow ball and cup of coupling head after cleaning each item. Grease the moving parts of an un-braked coupling. Apply grease via the Grease nipples on a braked. This should be applied on a monthly basis.
Your trailer is fitted with Knott Avonride axle(s), which feature Waterproof bearings.
It is recommended that you carry out regular checks on the bearings i.e. check for excessive play (loose).
Have the brakes, including the hand brake, checked, adjusted and maintained via a competent Trailer
Center. This should be checked on a monthly basis.
Check and tighten (if necessary) all wheel nuts and other fixing nuts and bolts. All fixing bolts are fitted with Nyloc nuts to prevent loosening from vibration.
Un-Braked Trailer Models
Un-braked models are fairly simple to deal with as they have few moving parts.
First, wheel bearings should be stripped out and checked for any signs of rust or pitting, if marked or rusting, they must be replaced completely, removing the shells from the hub can normally be done quite easily, using a metal drift and knocking out from the opposite side of hub.
Refit the new shells, using a socket from your socket set or a piece of a steel tube fractionally smaller in diameter than the shell, taking care to knock the shell into place squarely and ensuring that it is seated firmly against the shoulder of the housing.
The rear roller race with oil seal should then be well greased in between and over the rollers and fitted into position on the stub axle, place hub onto axle, grease and fit outer roller race, fit washer and castle nut.
Castle nut should be tightened, using light spanner pressure, then slacken off one or two castle-actions, until wheel runs freely with barely perceptible end float, remembering that slightly loose is better than too tight . Refit cotter pin. Repeat this procedure for other wheel, refitting and pumping grease in through nipple. If original bearings are o.k., use above procedure for refitting.
Whilst wheels are off, check tyres for splits, cuts or excessive wear, bearing in mind that regulations are the same for motor vehicles, 2mm. minimum tread over at least 2/3 of tread width, if found to be faulty replace with same type of tyre, do not mix radial and cross ply on same axle. Check tyre pressures.
Coupling should then be checked to see it operates correctly and is relatively tight on the ball, if wear has taken place, fit a new coupling or ball, whichever is worn. The coupling cup should be greased and all other parts lubricated.
All other moving parts on the trailer, such as winch and jockey wheel should be greased to ensure easy operation, using a suitable marine grease, such as "Aqua lube" available at most dealers, this can also be used to smear threads on bolts and U bolts etc, to ensure free operation should the trailer need to be adjusted later to suit a different boat.
Finally, check all nuts and bolts for tightness. Then pick up and safely block wheels clear of the ground to keep the weight off tyres and bearings throughout the winter. Check winch rope for signs of fraying, if found, replace the rope.
If the trailer has been immersed in salt water during the season, wash down with soapy water to remove salt deposits.
Braked Trailer Models
Bearing and tyre procedures remain the same as for un-braked models, also frame maintenance.
With regard to the braking system, once you have the manual, jack up each wheel in turn and follow this procedure.
Remove grease cap, cotter pin and castle nut, slacken off brake adjustment to allow the brake drum to be drawn off, if tight tap the back with a rubber hammer or use a hub extractor tool, which can be hired from most auto accessory shops. When the brake drum is removed check that the brake linings are in good condition and thick enough to last the following season, if not replace.
Return springs should be in good condition, if stretched or rusted, these should be replaced.
Brakes should be rebuilt onto the back plate with new parts where necessary and the actuator lightly greased with "Aqua lube" or similar, never use oil on brake parts, this could run onto the linings, check with the manual to see that assembly is correct, then pull on cable or brake rod to see that the brakes expand.
Inspect bearings and oil seal for any corrosion or rusting and follow procedures as for un-braked or instructions in service manual. Refit bearings and hub as per manual instructions.
The coupling head should operate smoothly and lock firmly onto the ball, if not, replace.
All moving parts of the coupling should be greased or oiled as per the manual, taking care to grease shaft via the grease nipple, normally on top of the coupling body, make sure that the grease oozes out of shaft bearings underneath the coupling.
Too much grease cannot damage anything.
Readjusting brakes can be quite simple, provided the manual is followed to the letter, noting tolerance and clearances where indicated, all moving parts of the trailer should then be lubricated as per unbraked trailers. The underside of the coupling can be liberally sprayed with WD 40 or equivalent to protect the damper shaft etc.
Finally, check tyres, winch, jockey wheel etc, for free movement and lubrication check winch rope for signs of fraying or cut, replace with new.
Check all nuts and bolts on trailer, taking care not to over tighten wheel nuts, 40lb should be adequate.
Jack up the trailer to take the weight off the bearings and tyres throughout the winter.
Bearing in mind that most trailers are over £1000.00 to buy, these few hours of maintenance can save a lot of money in the long run, peace of mind can cost so little, breakdowns can be very expensive and ruin a holiday or a weekend's boating.
If in any doubt whatsoever regarding maintenance, take it to a dealer or garage for professional help.
Driving- How to Tow a Trailer.
LEGAL
REMEMBER THAT A ROAD TRAILER IS A VEHICLE SUBJECT TO THE LAW WHO HAVE POWERS TO INSPECT IT AT ANY TIME ON THE ROAD AND MAY PROSECUTE A USER WHERE THE TRAILER IS NOT IN CONFORMITY WITH THE LAW OR WHERE IT IS NOT IN A ROADWORTHY CONDITION. IT IS THE OWNERS RESPONSIBILITY TO CHECK AND MAINTAIN THE TRAILER TO ENSURE IT IS ROADWORTHY. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN EXPENSIVE REPAIRS OR PROSECUTION
HITCHING UP
Apply the handbrake (if applicable), remove any tow ball and electrical socket dust covers and security devices then wind the jockey wheel to the required height.
Check the tow ball is oiled, not greased and if not being used with a head stabiliser.
Get a helper to stand with their hands showing you where the hitch is and reverse slowly back. Your helper indicates if you are offline.
Raise the front of the trailer by means of the jockey wheel assembly to the required height; roll the trailer up to the rear of the towing vehicle.
If the trailer has tandem axles, raise sufficiently to raise the front wheels off the ground to aid manoeuvrability.
Do not attempt to lift the front of the trailer. Lower the trailer by means of the jockey wheel assembly onto the tow ball of the vehicle.
Over the last foot or so, your helper should use their hands to show you the actual distance between tow ball coupling head.
If you have to stop a few inches short, judge how far back you are going by comparing the front wheels’ movement to something on the ground. Wind the jockey wheel down to lower the coupling head onto the tow ball.
Some coupling heads have a locking handle which stays up then automatically locks onto the ball; others have to be held up and may have an indicator to show the ball is in place.
Once the coupling head appears locked on, lower the jockey wheel a few turns to lift the back of the vehicle to prove the coupling head is on properly, then fully raise the wheel before unclamping it and, finally, locking it fully raised. Check that the wheel is not interfering with the operation of the overrun mechanism.
Attach safety breakaway cable(s) to the rear of the vehicle. This cable will apply the handbrake if for any reason the trailer becomes detached whilst towing. (Clip the breakaway cable onto the special rings some tow bars have or loop it around the bar, making sure it cannot foul the coupling head. Do not loop it around the tow ball neck unless you can find no alternative.)
Check that the breakaway and lighting cables have enough slack for cornering but will not touch the ground.
Plug in the lighting plug, and check all lights and indicators. The electrical plug only fits one way, so line up its cut-out with the lug on the bottom edge of the socket. Some cars have two sockets – use the one with the black cover flap because the white flap is for caravan supplementary electrical systems.
SAFETY
With both braked and un-braked trailers the use of secondary couplings between the car towing bracket and the trailer frame is a legal requirement.
In the case of braked trailers the breakaway cable will activate the trailer handbrake in the event of the trailer becoming uncoupled.
If the trailer tends to snake at speed the problem could well be insufficient nose weight, low Tyre pressures, incorrect weight distribution of the boat and contents, or a combination of all. Do not proceed to tow until the problem has been recognized and rectified.
The maximum towing limit in the UK is 60 m.p.h. on Dual Carriageways and Motorways but remains at 50 m.p.h. on Single Carriageways (Provided that no lower speed limit is in force).
Un-braked Trailers Maximum gross weight allowed is 750 Kg. However the gross trailer weight should NOT exceed 50% of the Kerb weight of the Towing Vehicle. Always check the rating plate on the trailer and check your vehicle handbook to ensure you do not exceed its towing capacity.
Braked Trailers may be towed up to the maximum weight recommended by the manufacturer of the Towing Vehicle. Please note that the weights on the type label are adhered to and not the actual weight
TRAILER REVERSING
Never reverse a trailer without checking behind you because of the large blind spot. Ideally, have someone see you back, especially in crowded places. Reversing a trailer is a skill that can be mastered with a little perseverance by anyone who has learned the basic theory.
Find somewhere with plenty of space and practice reversing. It helps to have someone who knows how to do it to tell you where you are going wrong.
Step By Step
- Start by driving far enough to get your rig lined straight.
- Think of your steering wheel as the trailer, the top of the wheel is the front end and the bottom of the wheel is the back end.
- Grip the bottom of the wheel and start by backing straight backwards.
- Steer a little at a time to turn the trailer to the left,move your hand to your left,small steering movements to turn the trailer to the right move your hand to the right.
- Keep track of your outer rear view mirrors.
- Straighten out by compensating in the opposite direction.
Technical Torque Settings
WHEEL BOLTS / NUTS
Thread Type Torque Value
M10 X 1.25 Bolt 55Nm
M12 X 1.5 Bolt 90Nm
M14 X 1.75 Bolt 110Nm
3/8 UNF Nut 60Nm
7/16 UNT Nut 70Nm
M12 X 1.5 Nut 100Nm
1/2 UNF Nut 90Nm
5/8 UNF Nut 110Nm
M16 X 1.5 Nut 195Nm
FASTNERS - GENERAL
Bolt Torque Value
M10 Grade 8.8 45Nm
M12 Grade 8.8 70Nm
M12 Grade 10.9 125Nm
M14 Grade 10.9 170 Nm
M16 Grade 8.8 195Nm
HEAD SECURING BOLTS
Bolt Thread Type
M12 Grade 10.9 100Nm
M14 Grade 10.9 125Nm
HUB NUT
Manufacturer One Piece Bearing
Knott avonride 280Nm
AL-KO 280Nm
Taper Roller Bearing
70Nm ( Rotate Hub ) Then back off. Retighten finger tight then fit split pin.